Arrived in Mulege' last night

We had a long day yesterday but a great one!  We paddled around Punta Chivato from our camp site 12 miles back to be surprised with a very nice community that included a 9-hole golf course in an arroy of sand.  Not your regular course but a course no less.  We met a couple from Riverside, CA that live down here in the winter and they directed us to the Clubhouse/Bar.

After walking across the airplane runway and golf corse we were greated by "Chivato Ron".  He had heard we were the kayakers from San Felipe and he wanted to buy us a beer.  We enjoyed our vistit with Ron and discovered he was a seasonal paver from Oregon that worked on roads 4-6 months out of the year and spent the rest of his time down here.  We also met a couple from Palmer, AK in the restaurant.  Doug's Nanooks shirt was the ice breaker with them, even though it is covered in probably 2 lbs. of salt.

We then started our 12 mile paddle across the entrance of the Bahia de Conception over to the entrance to Mulege, which is marked by a lighthouse- the only problem is that you can't tell from the map we had which side of the lighthouse we were supposed to enter from.  Mulege is an interesting town as it is the only town (we think) in Baja that is located up a river and not on the beach.  So, we rounded the lighthouse and started paddling up the river past pangas and homes on both shores, but it was pretty much right at dusk and we were both pretty whipped from paddling.

We made a decision to paddle up the river on the right side, because it looked deeper, but the campgrounds were probably on the left side- so we paddled right past them all.  We finally came to a stretch of homes with Christmas lights and a nice walkway in front of them, and we pulled over and asked where the nearest campground was.  Mike and Rosalyn, the owners of the place, looked at us all soaking wet with our kayaks way up the river, and said you can camp in our driveway if you want.  We took him up on it, and as we were setting up our tent and unloading our kayaks Rosalyn brought us out an 8 pack of  Pacifico- and then they brought us both a lasagna dinner with garlic bread and salad!  We have sure been making wrong turns turn into perfect times!

This morning we walked into town and found a great coffee shop with internet.  We are going to try and hitch a ride down into Bahia de Conception to check it out.

Mulege has mangroves along the water, palm trees everywhere, and lots of fresh water.

Three hurricanes in the past 3 years have caused lots of damage in this town.  There are broken palm trees and homes that were totally destroyed by a mud slide and high water- Mike said that the water level was 6 feet over his roof.  It is slowly rebuilding, and looks like an interesting town.  We picked our first "wild" orange today.


We visited the second oldest mission in all of Baja here in Mulege as well as the museum that was once a prison, but it was closed. 

Then we were waiting for a ride to get us down into the Bahia de Conception which didn't pan out, but instead Alexander, the guy driving our Explorer down from San Felipe drove by, and we caught a ride with him in our own car down about 30 miles to Coyote Beach down in the bay.  He continued on into Loreto with the old Explorer that is working just fine!  It even still had the Virgin Mary and the Rosary Beads Cheryl and Joni put on the dash for us!!!

At Coyote Beach, which is a big kayaking school area, we ran into Kate and George, our sailing friends from Whitehorse that we first met at San Francisquito's, and have subsequently run into at Santa Rosalia as well.

The Bahia de Conception is a beautiful bay with white sand beaches, protected inlets and coves, and very cool rock islands and islets.  There are homes and camp sites at most every beach, but the water is crystal clear, blue and green and very inviting.  We are glad we made the trip down by car as we probably wouldn't have paddled the 30 miles up only to turn around and paddle another 30 miles back out.  Our plan is to leave here tomorrow if the weather lets us and head the 80 miles to Loreto as the weather looks like it will give us a window to make that kind of distance.

Another Day in Santa Rosalia

We hope all of you had a great Thanksgiving!   We enjoyed ours with a Chicken dinner including fixins of mashed potatoes, coleslaw, bread and our own cranberry sauce.  We also had a bit of salsa and calamari on the side as an appetizer.

Prior to dinner we ran into Stephen and Heidi from the S/V Narama.  They invited us in for a beer and converation.  We enjoyed sharing stories related to our travels from San Felipe to here.  They were able to not only see sperm whales and pilot whales but recorded some incredible hydrophonic recordings of the pilot whales they shared with us.  Most of you think our travels are a bit risky if not crazy, well they are traveling from B.C. to where we met them in San Felipe and ultimately going to Australia by way of the Gallopagos Islands!

Today has been a relaxing day as the weather has been a bit windy and the forecast doesn´t look to good for the near future.  We may be here another of couple of days if not more?  To tell you how long we have been here, we are starting to know all the taco stand owners/operators and also met an indiviual who pitched a 19 strikeout game in 1967.  He also claims to know Fernando Valenzuela.

We have seen a lot of baseball players, young and adult, walking around town in uniform.  We walked a few miles today trying to find a ball field, but could only find a soccer field and a donkey in a truck.  We did however run into two individuals that are biking south on Mex 1, originating in California.  One of the bicyclists plans to ride to Guatemala and the other to Nicaragua.  Again, this seems to confirm our idea and plans are not so wild, don´t you all agree?

Other notables for the day are we saw a parade of 5 dancing girls, one tarzan and 6 tigers!  We think they were part of an organized carni group planning on putting on a show in La Paz or Cabo San Lucas.

Although we are enjoying Santa Rosalia, we are missing being out on the water catching our fish for taco dinners.  We found a great fresh produce stand and we plan on doing it right this time.  We are going to load up on goodies to go with the fresh fish.  The picture below is a boon and crocket Cabrilla caught about 100 miles ago.

Thanksgiving In Santa Rosalia

We are in Santa Rosalia for Thanksgiving and very happy to be here as it is mucho viento-very windy-today.  Last night was pretty crazy for us as we have not had much interactiion with other people, and then it was kind of overload last night.  We witnessed a big band playing Mexican music down the street and then saw one of the candidates for Governor  of Baja CaliforniaSur, Mr. Marcos, making a speech to a large and excited crowd.  It was pretty wild seeing all of it, and we had to at least take it in and listen to what he had to say.  We have no idea what he exactly said, but it sounded good to us and we would vote for him!

Today we spent wandering around the town, eating breakfast at the Hotel Frances which is about 100 years old and build of wood from Oregon, and we had a great view of the surrounding water from there as well.  We visited the famous French bakery in town and had a baguette, and pretty much spent a heck of a lot of time trying to find a place that would serve us pavo-turkey for dinner.  We did find a grocery store that had a 22 pound rock hard frozen butterball turkey, but that was kind of out of our league with our little MSR stove and frying pan.  So......we are going to settle for eating at a restaurant called polloito´s tonight, and have a roasted chicken dinner- but we are going to bring our can of cranberries that were given to us up in LA Bay 140 miles ago, and bring it to dinner with us and open it with our Swiss army knife and have that as a side with our dinner!

We also were able to buy two stamps today so we could mail postcards back home, but it was much more difficult to get the actual post card.  We tried really hard to explain what a post card was to a couple of store vendors, but all they could come up with was either a post it note or an envelope.  We think postcards may be a thing of the past.

We had meet some people in the harbor in San Felipe on a sailboat on our very first day of paddling, and now we see their boat, the Narama, tied up in the harbor.  We are hoping to run into them tonight or tomorrow and visit with them.  We are also on the main line of Mex 1 right now, and so it is possible that our car could drive through the town at any time on its way to Loreto, as we have arranged to have a man, Alexander, to drive it there for us.  That would be very strange to see that if it happens.

We also have our tent pitched tonight next to a pool on the upper deck of the harbormaster building with a fine view of the ocean!  The price was right and we will have access to showers and won't have to look into the neighbors yard or hear them talking all night like last night at our 1 star hotel.

Happy Thanksgiving to all of our followers and have an extra bite of turkey, mashed potatoes and pumpkin pie for both of us, as we can guarantee that we won't be having any of that- but at least we won't be eating fish tacos either!  Adios Amigos- more to come tomorrow!!!


































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We have arrived in Santa Rosalia!!!

First off, we entered Baja California Sur a couple of days ago, and now we are in a different state.  The time was 6:30 am on November 22!  The other big news is that we are now officially 1/2 way down the Baja coast!!!!!  This equates to paddling from Craig to Skagway so far.

We will post more tomorrow, but want everyone to know that we pulled in to Santa Rosalia this afternoon with calm seas.  We were greeted at the harbor by Kate and George, two people from Haines Junction that are down here sailing.  We met them up at San Francisquito, and they saw us paddling across the bay today, and had two cold beers waiting for us as we docked!

This leg has been a long one- 140 miles from LA Bay to here, and we put in a 30 mile day as well.  We met some interesting people, some of them Mexican Pangeros that were super nice to us along the way.  We are enjoying cold beer and are in the middle of some sort of political rally in our town.  We are continuing to enjoy our fish tacos, but along the way we have also had some scallops, oysters, and even had some ceviche and lobster with the Pangeros!

An interesting point is that we have noticed the Pangeros fishing methods have changed as we have moved on down the coast.  To start with they had piles of loose gillnet web in their boats for fishing small fish, then we saw long lines and short gillnets for squid, then we saw pot fishing for Cabrilla, then we saw some shark fishermen with bigger mesh gillnet, then we saw more longlines, and now we have seen hook and line fishing more like trolling.  What is next- a seiner?  Actually we saw a transvac pump here in Santa Rosalia today, so maybe we will see a seiner!

For those that are interested in birds, we have seen alot of them- but we agree that our favorite to watch is the Blue Footed  Boobie.  We love to watch their 200 foot dives straight down into the water to get a fish, and then pop up a few minutes later to do it all over again!  We also saw a rare red billed tropic bird- we didnt know they were rare until a lady at the museum in LA Bay told us that they were rarely seen here, so then we were impressed as well!

The water and food rations have been holding up really well, and in fact we have had people offer us water along the way, and we have turned them down because we are doing so well with what we have.  We still are burning more calories than we are eating, but thats going to be the way it is we think!  Tonight we are going out on the town and eat late and have a few drinks and probably stay up past our usual bed time of 6pm!

One more Day in LA Bay

Today is November 17th and we plan on packing up from this Oasis of a place and move 3 miles into downtown LA Bay where we will be closer to the grocery store to stock up on some supplies, and also we will be closer to the Taco Stand!  When you are travelling by kayak, stocking up means more water and tortillas- and that's about it.  We don't have room for much else, except for some onions and peppers and limes to flavor our fish tacos.

Mark caught a yellowtail a couple of days ago and we both agree that it is the best tasting fish we have had down here- it was about 7 or 8 pounds, and we both devoured the entire fish in one sitting!  So far we would have to rank the fish we have eaten with Yellowtail being first, followed by Sierra, followed by bass and rounded out with the trigger fish.  Anytime we can get a yellowtail or a sierra, it is a great day!

The Baja 1000 rumbles through town tommorrow, and we plan on being underway in the morning as we have a one week forcast of calm weather, so we better make hay while the sun shines.  We have 150 miles to go before we will be by another computer (we think), so you may not hear from us for a while.  Our next stop is Francisquito- a little nook with fresh water supposedly available about 60 miles south of us, and then big water for another 80 or 90 miles until we are in a big town, Santa Rosalia.

Today we may try to take another peak at whale sharks in the inner bay, but we really want to see what the town looks like also.  Plus- there are killer tacos in this town and they are calling our names!!!!!  The best part about the tacos is that we can get chicken or beef- a welcome change from fish tacos!

Also we are starting to put together our Thanksgiving dinner menu- one of the guys at the place we are staying gave us a can of cranberries, and we already have a bag of chicken flavored rice, so now we need to track down a chicken along the way to round out the meal.  We are hoping to just buy a chicken walking around one of the villages we pass, and then it will be a great thanksgiving dinner for all- except for the chicken!

Thanks to all of you that are following our progress, and we will try and update when we can!

Bahia de Los Angeles aka LA Bay

We pulled into LA Bay this morning, and it was a welcomed event!  We left Gonzaga Bay on Monday, November 8th after getting to paddle with not one but two whale sharks- one north of Gonzaga Bay, and the other right in front of Alfonsina's hotel and bar where we spent one night.  

We made good time paddling around Punta Final and had a nice campsite, but then it blew hard the next day before we got a reprieve and clicked off another 20 miles towards LA Bay.  We camped at a place called El Mesquite and it was  a nice place as well, but the only problem was that we were pinned down there by a ferocious Northerly for the next 3 days before we could move.  We were conserving water by staying in the shade and sipping water like a hummingbird.  Mark gave me a hard time about the fact that I went the whole day on a coke bottle full of water!  And we are talking a 16 oz bottle- not a big one!

Then our luck improved, and the wind died down a little and we were able to again rack up about 17 miles and make it to an abandoned fish camp in a beautiful crescent sandy cove called Punta Meurto - I think it means something dead, so we were happy to make it through that and get out of there.  There are lots of Coyotes around and every night they cut loose with crazy howling noises!

The next morning, Nov 15th is was absolutely flat calm and we were able to travel at a pretty rapid pace.  We saw fin whales, lots of turtles, some fantastic rock structures, and Mark was able to catch about a 8 pound yellow tail tuna!  As usual, we had a couple of pods of Dolphins that we ran into along the way, and we even saw a handful of pangas- the first signs of people since Gonzaga Bay other than an occasional airplane!  We even felt so confident in the weather that we took a break 3 miles north of the dreaded Punta Remedios and went for a snorkel seeing lots of marine life and beautiful fish including the Sea of Cortez Angel.  We may- no we probably were the first people to ever snorkel that area!  We are also some of the first people not able to rotate our pictures, maybe we will get it together on the next round.

We kept on ticking off the miles and took a break right on the end of Punta Remedios and ate some lunch.  Lunch to us consists of one Clif Bar and a swallow of water!  Dinner always means the same thing- grilled fish.

We then set our sights on a point past Isla Alcatrez which would put us farther up into LA Bay, and we were beat by the time we got there.  But our reward for going in a strait line off shore to that point was a close encounter with a Fin Whale.  When we did stop for the night, it was on a spit of cobblestone with no real good tent platform, but it was good enough for us.  We ate the entire Yellow Tail, and even threw a rice dish in with it!  We also drank an incredible amount of water, making up for lost time with our hummingbird rationing!

We went to bed late last night- maybe 6 pm?  All night long we had maybe 50 or more pangas fishing right on the shore by our tent.  Most of the Pngeros ( the fishermen that fish the Pangas) were friendly and waved to us- they probably think we are nuts anyway.  We couldn't figure out if they were using nets, longlines or hooks, but we later found out today that they were fishing for Humboldt Squid!

Today we paddled the 11 miles or so into LA Bay proper.  We talked to a couple out in a Hawaiian Outrigger, and they were the first people we had talked to in 9 days, and the first kayakers we had seen.  We have also been watching out for rattlesnakes on land and haven't seen one, but as we paddled into LA Bay we passed a sea snake on the surface!  I didn't know we had to watch out for snakes on the water too!!!!!

We paddled to a place we though was our first bar, a place I thought was called Villa Bar, but instead it was a residence called Villa Bahia.  We were bummed, but then two guys that are housesitting the place- Shawn and Garrett- invited us in and gave us a cold Ballena ( Big sized Pacificos), and let us use the internet!  Thanks to Shawn and Garrett- you guys rock!!!!

If you happen to have access to a map of Baja, you will notice that this is a big milestone for us.  We have now completed 1/4 of the entire peninsula, and have now paddled over 150 miles as the crow flies.  But as Mark and Doug paddle, it was probably closer to 200 miles!!! We plan on hanging out here recuperating for a couple of days and then head south to Francisquitos. Will post more later, and we appreciate all of our followers!

Gonzaga Bay - 100 Miles South

We made it down to Gonzaga Bay this morning.  We have traveled through some rough windy weather and some very calm nice days.  We seem to prefer the 5 am departure in the dark with stars and phosphorescence.
We have met some really nice people along the way.  Thank you to Dave & Carol for the nice cold beer.  We also met a group of folks one evening who offered us dinner if Doug would fillet their fish.  We think we got the better end of the deal!  Come to find out, one of them had sport fished in Coffman Cove.

We have been making about 20 miles a day and 100 total so far.  We are 1/8th of the way and hope to be in LA Bay by the end of the next week.  Internet is scarce along the coast so our updates are few and far between at this point.

We saw a Whale Shark yesterday but didn't have a chance to swim with it though.  Maybe we can if we see another one.

We plan on leaving tomorrow on our next leg so enough for now.  Sorry no pictures at this point.  Maybe next stop.

Adios amigos!

San Felipe

We made it into San Felipe last night.  The boarder crossing was a bit interesting but we made it through with a little help from English speaking locals.  We have definately confirmed we are inadaquate in our multi-lingual skills.  Hopefully this journey will help us hone in on our spanish.

Last night was Halloween.  We rounded up some candy and passed out treats to the little ninas and ninos on the streets of San Felipe.  It was only a matter of minutes before we were swarmed and out of candy!  What a great experience - possibly the hightlight of the day other than seeing the Sea of Cortez finally.

We are now trying to finalize our car storage option here in town so we can feel safe leaving our mechanized transportation behind.  A very new experience is about to transpire.  No more car, restaurants, showers, power plugs for electronic devices, etc.  It seems a bit wierd but we are looking forward to the change.

We had another interesting experience today looking for "Blanco Gasolina" for our stoves- it isn't that common, and when we did find it, it comes in glass 20 oz bottles!  Mark walked out of the tire shop feeling like he was holding some kind of bomb!  The best part of the day was running into a guy from Canada and another guy from Mexico that helped us find stuff and talk to us in great English- and he knew the guy we are supposed to leave the car with.  Anyway, it has been a great experience so far, but we are definately ready to get on the water, as we need to get away from all of the hustle.  A girl at lunch here asked where we were paddling to, and we said Cabo- she said "holy shit that's a long way".  It might be, but we hopefully will start it soon!